A Hiker’s Paradise: Rincon de la Vieja’s Dry Tropical Forests
Friday, March 11th, 2011
A Hiker’s Paradise: Rincón de la Vieja’s Dry Tropical Forests
The misty rainforests, draped thick across most of Costa Rica, are justly famed for their pristine wilderness. But adventurers who seek to penetrate their muddy understories must come prepared: Guides are almost always required to identify birdcalls in the fog, while rubber boots—or better, hanging bridges and canopy tours—are recommended in the slippery rainy season.
Hikers in search of drier trails, however, with clearer views and no need for guides (though they can be arranged) could consider visiting easily accessible Rincón de la Vieja National Park instead, less than an hour from and the international airport. The huge volcanic massif, sometimes called the “Colossus of Guanacaste,” dominates northwestern Costa, covering 14,084 hectares (34,800 acres) and rising to 1916m (6286ft). Most of the volcano is covered with dry tropical forest, Central America’s rarest biome because it is so easily explored—trails are easily negotiated and wildlife clearly visible, particularly in summer months (December through May) when many trees lose their leaves.
Birders in particular will appreciate Rincón de la Vieja’s prodigious fauna, including several species of parrots, parakeets, trogons, and hummingbirds, as well as urracas (magpie jays), bellbirds, toucans, woodpeckers, and perhaps even quetzals at the highest altitudes. Spotting monkeys (howler, spider, and capuchins swing through these trees), pizotes (coatimundis), and kinkajous is almost guaranteed; luckier hikers may find two-toed sloths, armadillos, anteaters, dantas (tapirs) or even big cats. Butterflies flutter in colorful clouds between the buttressed roots of enormous matapalos (strangler figs), while the park’s varied bouquet includes stands of guaria morada orchids, Costa Rica’s national flower.
There are two entrances to the park, about 30km (18mi) from downtown Liberia; many local hotels run shuttles, which take about an hour on the unpaved roads. There is also lodging closer to the top. Both sectors have ranger stations with potable water and shady campgrounds, complete bathrooms and grills, still a rarity even in this outdoorsy nation.
The Santa María Sector is a good choice for people who want to visit Los Azufrales, simple, cement-lined hot springs about 4km (2.5mi) from the ranger station. The majority of trails, however, begin in the Las Pailas Sector, where most shuttle drop you off; the entrances are connected by a little-used, 9km (5mi) trail through the rolling, forested volcanic skirts, primarily hiked by wildlife watchers.
The most popular trail is a relatively flat, 4km (2.5mi) loop past a variety of volcanic features: simmering fumeroles, boiling lakes, bubbling mud pots, popping sulfur vents, and even a sweet little volcanito (small volcano) where iguanas often sun themselves. We recommend saving this trail for the afternoon, if you plan to visit to one of the two picturesque waterfalls as well.
Both waterfall trails run about 4.5km (2.5mi) from the Las Pailas ranger station. Catarata Cangreja is the slightly easier trail (though still challenging), and is perhaps the lovelier cascade, dyed that celestial volcanic blue. Visiting Catarata Escondida requires a much steeper hike, and is the smaller fall. But, as the majority of hikers are put off by the climb, you may have the “Hidden Cascade” all to yourself. Either way, pack some snacks and enjoy a swim in paradise.
Serious climbers will want to take on the very steep, 12km (8mi) trail to active Von Seebach Crater, a simmering acid lake surrounded by a 5-kilometer-wide, barren lunar landscape, a compound caldera that most recently spewed forth lava in 1998. The hike takes all day, and the last two kilometers are extremely steep, and can be slippery and dangerous. The peak may be entirely enveloped in foggy rain even on otherwise sunny days, which will not only obscure your volcanic view, but may even necessitate turning back. You’ll be rewarded, regardless, with views across Guanacaste and to Lake Nicaragua, well worth the trip.
Rincón de la Vieja National Park is open Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; entrance is US$10 for foreign visitors. Day trips can be arranged from Los Sueños and Jaco; many offer the option of a canopy tour at Hacienda Guachipelin, with decent lodging, horseback tours, and more. Much plusher accommodations can be arranged at Blue River Resort Hotel or Borinquen Mountain Resort and Spa.
