A Hiker’s Paradise: Rincón de la Vieja’s Dry Tropical Forests

The misty rainforests, draped thick across most of Costa Rica, are justly famed for their pristine wilderness. But adventurers who seek to penetrate their muddy understories must come prepared: Guides are almost always required to identify birdcalls in the fog, while rubber boots—or better, hanging bridges and canopy tours—are recommended in the slippery rainy season.

Hikers in search of drier trails, however, with clearer views and no need for guides (though they can be arranged) could consider visiting easily accessible Rincón de la Vieja National Park instead, less than an hour from and the international airport. The huge volcanic massif, sometimes called the “Colossus of Guanacaste,” dominates northwestern Costa, covering 14,084 hectares (34,800 acres) and rising to 1916m (6286ft). Most of the volcano is covered with dry tropical forest, Central America’s rarest biome because it is so easily explored—trails are easily negotiated and wildlife clearly visible, particularly in summer months (December through May) when many trees lose their leaves.

Birders in particular will appreciate Rincón de la Vieja’s prodigious fauna, including several species of parrots, parakeets, trogons, and hummingbirds, as well as urracas (magpie jays), bellbirds, toucans, woodpeckers, and perhaps even quetzals at the highest altitudes. Spotting monkeys (howler, spider, and capuchins swing through these trees), pizotes (coatimundis), and kinkajous is almost guaranteed; luckier hikers may find two-toed sloths, armadillos, anteaters, dantas (tapirs) or even big cats. Butterflies flutter in colorful clouds between the buttressed roots of enormous matapalos (strangler figs), while the park’s varied bouquet includes stands of guaria morada orchids, Costa Rica’s national flower.

There are two entrances to the park, about 30km (18mi) from downtown Liberia; many local hotels run shuttles, which take about an hour on the unpaved roads. There is also lodging closer to the top. Both sectors have ranger stations with potable water and shady campgrounds, complete bathrooms and grills, still a rarity even in this outdoorsy nation.

The Santa María Sector is a good choice for people who want to visit Los Azufrales, simple, cement-lined hot springs about 4km (2.5mi) from the ranger station. The majority of trails, however, begin in the Las Pailas Sector, where most shuttle drop you off; the entrances are connected by a little-used, 9km (5mi) trail through the rolling, forested volcanic skirts, primarily hiked by wildlife watchers.

The most popular trail is a relatively flat, 4km (2.5mi) loop past a variety of volcanic features: simmering fumeroles, boiling lakes, bubbling mud pots, popping sulfur vents, and even a sweet little volcanito (small volcano) where iguanas often sun themselves. We recommend saving this trail for the afternoon, if you plan to visit to one of the two picturesque waterfalls as well.

Both waterfall trails run about 4.5km (2.5mi) from the Las Pailas ranger station. Catarata Cangreja is the slightly easier trail (though still challenging), and is perhaps the lovelier cascade, dyed that celestial volcanic blue. Visiting Catarata Escondida requires a much steeper hike, and is the smaller fall. But, as the majority of hikers are put off by the climb, you may have the “Hidden Cascade” all to yourself. Either way, pack some snacks and enjoy a swim in paradise.

Serious climbers will want to take on the very steep, 12km (8mi) trail to active Von Seebach Crater, a simmering acid lake surrounded by a 5-kilometer-wide, barren lunar landscape, a compound caldera that most recently spewed forth lava in 1998. The hike takes all day, and the last two kilometers are extremely steep, and can be slippery and dangerous. The peak may be entirely enveloped in foggy rain even on otherwise sunny days, which will not only obscure your volcanic view, but may even necessitate turning back. You’ll be rewarded, regardless, with views across Guanacaste and to Lake Nicaragua, well worth the trip.

Rincón de la Vieja National Park is open Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; entrance is US$10 for foreign visitors. Day trips can be arranged from Los Sueños and Jaco; many offer the option of a canopy tour at Hacienda Guachipelin, with decent lodging, horseback tours, and more. Much plusher accommodations can be arranged at Blue River Resort Hotel or Borinquen Mountain Resort and Spa.

Avarios Sloth Sanctuary

Hidden beneath the coconut palms and sea almonds that line Costa Rica’s thickly rainforested Caribbean Coast, just north of Cahuita National Park, is a window on a world that few human beings will ever know. Welcome to Aviarios Sloth Sanctuary and Rescue Center, the only facility of its kind in Central America.

The private wildlife refuge has been operated by Judy and Luis Arroyo since 1997, inspired by an abandoned baby sloth that three local girls brought them in 1992. They christened the tiny creature Buttercup, and she led them to a lifelong commitment.

Immediately charmed by their tiny new charge, the Arroyos began asking for advice—but no one, not even the San José Zoo, could help the Alaska natives care for the orphaned animal. Through trial, error, and luck (or perhaps destiny), Buttercup survived. Without proper sloth training, however, she could never be reintroduced to the wild. Instead, the 18-year-old beauty welcomes visitors to what is now the world’s premier sloth center.

Avarios is primarily dedicated to helping hurt and abandoned sloths make their way in this increasingly fast-paced world. Scores are brought in annually, many of them burned by power lines, wounded by dogs, or even hurt by groups of children. Adult sloths are nursed back to health, while the babies are reared with as much sloth sensibility as humanly possible. Some are reintroduced into the wild, but most remain permanent residents of the center and surrounding property.

Wild, winsome and naturally prone to offering hugs—it takes a full crew of volunteers to keep visitors from responding to their wide-eyed entreaties, as untrained humans can easily harm the sloths—the sanctuary’s 130+ residents always seem to have a smile.

Permanent inhabitants become part of a free educational program, which teaches kids from across Costa Rica to respect their slow-moving neighbors. Aviarios is also a popular stop for international travelers who want to learn more about sloths. Both two- and three-toed sloths are represented at the center, and if you’re lucky, they may have baskets full of to see when you drop by.

The whole operation costs more than US$10,000 per month, paid for primarily by donations and day trippers, who can enjoy a fascinating tour that includes a film, meet-and-greet with sloth ambassadors (perhaps Buttercup) who have shown a particular affinity for humans, and an optional boat trip through the Río Estrella delta, where past sloths that have been partially reintegrated into their national habitat.

You can also stay overnight at Aviarios’ onsite hotel, just a few minutes from the restaurants and modest nightlife of Cahuita, or even participate in their recommended volunteer program. You can also help support the center by shopping at the online Slothmart, or simply “liking” their Facebook page.

Aviarios Sloth Sanctuary and Rescue Center is located about three hours west of San José, convenient to the popular tourist towns of Cahuita and Puerto Viejo de Talamanca.

A proud mother who's just laid a nest of Olive Ridley turtle eggs

Last night my buddy Raul and I met up at the Back Yard Bar and Grill and then drove the six or so miles to the south end of Hermosa Beach (Playa Hermosa) just 10 minutes from Jaco; the last five miles were all within the Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge, a nature preserve established by the government about eight years ago. The north end of this beach is where the World Surfing Games were held during the first week of August 2009.

Four of the world’s seven species of marine turtles nest on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica — the Pacific Green, Leatherback, Hawksbill and the Olive Ridley.  Forty-seven beaches on the Pacific Coast have been identified as having turtle nesting activity

The Olive Ridley turtle lays 70-120 eggs at a time, and typically lays two-three batches per year. This is one of the many interesting bits of info shared by Raul, a Costa Rican who knows so much about his beautiful country, including its history, flora and fauna. 

Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge on Costa Rica's Pacific Coast

Our mission was to walk the beach looking for turtle tracks, which lead to nests of just-laid eggs. Mostly we walked by moonlight; it’s easier to see the tracks. Occasionally we turned on our red-light flashlights to check out whatever dark mass was in our path (always just a large log or beautiful piece of driftwood, typically from an ancient growth tree struck down by age and the elements).  Artificial light disorients the turtles; they navigate by the light of the moon.

Raul has experienced so much of Costa Rica. While walking toward the mouth of the Tulin River and the 100 or so crocodiles who call it home, he told me about fishing in there and catching rooster fish and huge snook.  At a river further south, he met an old guy in an ancient canoe who had told Raul about the crocodile who ate his dog.  Enraged at losing a loved companion, the old guy killed the 12 foot long croc with a grappling hook.  When Raul expressed disbelief, Cocodrilo Dundee took Raul to his hut and pulled the croc skull with teeth out from under his bed.  Sr. Dundito had eaten the dog-eating croc!

I asked Raul what croc tastes like and his response was the one heard the world over, “Like chicken!”  My high school chum Tammi Mclaughlin wrote on Facebook, “I’ve actually had crocodile and I think it tastes like not much of anything with a nice rubber texture to boot!”.

Olive Ridley turtle laying eggs

Once at the river, we shined our flashlight across the broad waters and were met by the reflections of about 20 red dots. Each dot represented one eye of a croc hunting in the river (the second eye of each was on the other side of their head and not seen by us).

We walked back to the nursery where about 100 nests are covered by protecting wire mesh (to help keep raccoons and other predators out) and surrounded by a wire mesh fence.  We found that one nest had been destroyed by ants and all the eggs had been ruined.  Better luck at the next nest, where one baby turtle had hatched and was somewhere in his hour-long process of waking up and gathering energy for his journey to the sea. With a gloved hand (to protect him from our insect repellant and other forms of contamination), the tortugito (baby turtle) was carried to the water’s edge, where he was gently washed out into the Pacific with the next small wave. 

I said a silent prayer for his health and well-being and imagined what changes the world would see during his lifetime, which could be 70 years. (Another Bush presidency? China’s world domination? Scott Miller becomes house trained again?)

We then walked up the beach in the other direction, looking for a momma turtle making her way to lay eggs.  What we found were fresh turtle tracks.  She had made a roundtrip, which means the eggs had been buried above the high tide mark.  We found the nest, dug up the eggs, counted and placed them in a plastic grocery bag.  Turtle eggs—Olive (so named for their color) Ridley turtle eggs—do not have a hard shell.  The eggs are squishy, softer even than a hard-boiled egg that’s been peeled. 

Turtle eggs being laid; think "squishy ping pong ball"

I carried the eggs to the nursery and re-buried them in the sand, within the protective enclosure. Of the 106 eggs, 85 or so will likely hatch. Those nearest the top of the nest (a hole dug in sand, elbow deep) will likely be female, those on the bottom will likely be male. Gender is determined by the temperature during an early developmental stage (eggs nearer the top are made warmer by the sun).

With our one hatchling safely launched and our eggs buried, we called it a night. I cannot wait to return; Raul is a terrific guide. Easy company and very knowledgeable.  His family has grown coffee in the San Ramon area of Costa Rica for generations and Raul sells it via a web site he built.  Check out the site; better yet, order a few bags for yourself and friends; Finca Rica (rich farm) ships to the U.S., Canada, Europe and elsewhere.

A just-hatched Ridley turtle making its way to the Pacific Ocean

When you come to Costa Rica for an adventure vacation off the beaten tourist path, let me know and I’ll hook you up with Raul.  His specialties as a guide are outings that are “non-touristy” and include surfing, fishing, waterfalls, coffee farm tours, snorkeling and this hands-on turtle tour at the Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge.

This weekend Raul is heading to Playa Camaronal in the Guanacaste region on the Northern Pacific Coast for “arribada” (mass arrival) of Ridley turtles. Check out Christopher P. Baker’s blog for an excellent description of this wonder of nature.

"Mass arrival" of Olive Ridley turtles coming to lay eggs