A proud mother who's just laid a nest of Olive Ridley turtle eggs

Last night my buddy Raul and I met up at the Back Yard Bar and Grill and then drove the six or so miles to the south end of Hermosa Beach (Playa Hermosa) just 10 minutes from Jaco; the last five miles were all within the Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge, a nature preserve established by the government about eight years ago. The north end of this beach is where the World Surfing Games were held during the first week of August 2009.

Four of the world’s seven species of marine turtles nest on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica — the Pacific Green, Leatherback, Hawksbill and the Olive Ridley.  Forty-seven beaches on the Pacific Coast have been identified as having turtle nesting activity

The Olive Ridley turtle lays 70-120 eggs at a time, and typically lays two-three batches per year. This is one of the many interesting bits of info shared by Raul, a Costa Rican who knows so much about his beautiful country, including its history, flora and fauna. 

Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge on Costa Rica's Pacific Coast

Our mission was to walk the beach looking for turtle tracks, which lead to nests of just-laid eggs. Mostly we walked by moonlight; it’s easier to see the tracks. Occasionally we turned on our red-light flashlights to check out whatever dark mass was in our path (always just a large log or beautiful piece of driftwood, typically from an ancient growth tree struck down by age and the elements).  Artificial light disorients the turtles; they navigate by the light of the moon.

Raul has experienced so much of Costa Rica. While walking toward the mouth of the Tulin River and the 100 or so crocodiles who call it home, he told me about fishing in there and catching rooster fish and huge snook.  At a river further south, he met an old guy in an ancient canoe who had told Raul about the crocodile who ate his dog.  Enraged at losing a loved companion, the old guy killed the 12 foot long croc with a grappling hook.  When Raul expressed disbelief, Cocodrilo Dundee took Raul to his hut and pulled the croc skull with teeth out from under his bed.  Sr. Dundito had eaten the dog-eating croc!

I asked Raul what croc tastes like and his response was the one heard the world over, “Like chicken!”  My high school chum Tammi Mclaughlin wrote on Facebook, “I’ve actually had crocodile and I think it tastes like not much of anything with a nice rubber texture to boot!”.

Olive Ridley turtle laying eggs

Once at the river, we shined our flashlight across the broad waters and were met by the reflections of about 20 red dots. Each dot represented one eye of a croc hunting in the river (the second eye of each was on the other side of their head and not seen by us).

We walked back to the nursery where about 100 nests are covered by protecting wire mesh (to help keep raccoons and other predators out) and surrounded by a wire mesh fence.  We found that one nest had been destroyed by ants and all the eggs had been ruined.  Better luck at the next nest, where one baby turtle had hatched and was somewhere in his hour-long process of waking up and gathering energy for his journey to the sea. With a gloved hand (to protect him from our insect repellant and other forms of contamination), the tortugito (baby turtle) was carried to the water’s edge, where he was gently washed out into the Pacific with the next small wave. 

I said a silent prayer for his health and well-being and imagined what changes the world would see during his lifetime, which could be 70 years. (Another Bush presidency? China’s world domination? Scott Miller becomes house trained again?)

We then walked up the beach in the other direction, looking for a momma turtle making her way to lay eggs.  What we found were fresh turtle tracks.  She had made a roundtrip, which means the eggs had been buried above the high tide mark.  We found the nest, dug up the eggs, counted and placed them in a plastic grocery bag.  Turtle eggs—Olive (so named for their color) Ridley turtle eggs—do not have a hard shell.  The eggs are squishy, softer even than a hard-boiled egg that’s been peeled. 

Turtle eggs being laid; think "squishy ping pong ball"

I carried the eggs to the nursery and re-buried them in the sand, within the protective enclosure. Of the 106 eggs, 85 or so will likely hatch. Those nearest the top of the nest (a hole dug in sand, elbow deep) will likely be female, those on the bottom will likely be male. Gender is determined by the temperature during an early developmental stage (eggs nearer the top are made warmer by the sun).

With our one hatchling safely launched and our eggs buried, we called it a night. I cannot wait to return; Raul is a terrific guide. Easy company and very knowledgeable.  His family has grown coffee in the San Ramon area of Costa Rica for generations and Raul sells it via a web site he built.  Check out the site; better yet, order a few bags for yourself and friends; Finca Rica (rich farm) ships to the U.S., Canada, Europe and elsewhere.

A just-hatched Ridley turtle making its way to the Pacific Ocean

When you come to Costa Rica for an adventure vacation off the beaten tourist path, let me know and I’ll hook you up with Raul.  His specialties as a guide are outings that are “non-touristy” and include surfing, fishing, waterfalls, coffee farm tours, snorkeling and this hands-on turtle tour at the Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge.

This weekend Raul is heading to Playa Camaronal in the Guanacaste region on the Northern Pacific Coast for “arribada” (mass arrival) of Ridley turtles. Check out Christopher P. Baker’s blog for an excellent description of this wonder of nature.

"Mass arrival" of Olive Ridley turtles coming to lay eggs