Isla del Coco, Costa Rica’s Ultimate Island Experience
By Paige R. Penland

Jacques Cousteau once called isolated Isla del Coco, in the deep and swirling Pacific some 550 kilometers (340 miles) from the Costa Rican mainland, “the most beautiful island in the world.” The lush apex of a volcanic mountain range that divers have compared to the Grand Canyon, Isla del Coco is an ecological marvel that must have enchanted the oceanographer from both above and below.

There are dozens of rewarding dive sites and accredited operators in Costa Rica, sure. But this is Central America’s Holy Grail for serious scuba divers, a rare world that National Geographic says is “like going back 200, 400 years. Isla del Coco is one of the few baselines we have…for understanding what the ocean was like before.”

There are dozens of wildlife-rich dive sites in the waters surrounding this pristine isle, among vast canyons, steep ridges, undersea caves stretching hundreds of unexplored meters, and tiny islets beloved by sea creatures, all bathed in cool, nutrient-rich waters that rise with the deep ocean currents.

Coco is most famous for hundreds of scalloped hammerhead sharks that swim amidst the epic undersea scenery, but more than 280 fish species ply these waters, to the delight of divers from all over the world. There are dozens more pelagics, including silky, reef, whitetip, tiger and whale sharks; Huge marble, eagle, and Pacidic manta rays; mobulas; pilot and humpback whales, and more. Vast schools of tuna, snapper, crevalle jacks, groupers, flouders, hawkfish, surgeonfish, squirrelfish, trumpetfish, urchins, eels, and more, glint in silvery numbers as they flow with the rough waters. This is a trip for experienced divers only, who will never forget it.

Unfortunately, the marine conservation area also serves as a difficult-to-protect base for illegal fishing, with foreign fleets killing endangered sharks just for their fins, a practice chronicled in the excellent 2006 documentary Sharkwater.

In order to protect this oasis of untouched nature, Isla del Coco was declared a national park in 1978 and a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, though humans apparently didn’t discover it until the 1530s. That’s when Spanish navigator Johan Cabezas first marked it down (with a deliberate vagueness) on the charts; there is no evidence of pre-Colombian habitation.

Though every attempt to settle Coco properly failed, dozens of (in)famous pirates frequented the little-known island, replete with fresh water, ample game, and plenty of coconuts for brewing “wine.” Tales of massive lost treasures still circulate, and to date some 500 expeditions, including one led by US President Teddy Roosevelt, have scoured the isle and its labyrinth caves system for booty. All these expeditions have (officially) proven fruitless, and are now (officially) banned by the Costa Rican government.

Isla del Coco's Espíritu Santo, or white tern, is so famously fearless that it hovers above the heads of visitors, as if it were checking them out. Photo by Colin Plant.

The real treasure of Isla del Coco, the largest uninhabited island on Earth (23.85 sq km/9.2 sq mi) and inspiration for Michael Chrichton’s “Jurassic Park” and Robert Louis Stevenson’s “Treasure Island,” is its incredible natural wealth. The rugged topography rises steeply from sea level to 200-meter (656-foot) wave-crashed cliffs to chill cloud-forested elevations, creating a dozen microclimates spread out below 634-meter (2079-foot) Cerro Iglesias. Bathed in some 7000mm (23 feet) of precipitation annually, the mountain presides over a waterfall-streaked Eden of giant moss- and bromeliad-draped trees that shelter hundreds of species, a third of which are found nowhere else in the world.

The island's remarkably wet climate and fantastic topography give birth to some 200 waterfalls plunging from the cloudforested heights, some straight into the sea. Photo by Colin Plant.

This is not the sort of spot one visits on a whim; only about 1100 people make the rough, 36hr voyage here each year, most of them on expensive, all-inclusive dive trips with either Undersea Hunter or Okeanos Agressor. Non-divers may be able to join infrequent expeditions offered by the Friends of Isla del Coco and the Organization for Tropical Studies. Private boats can arrange to anchor in one of the protected bays, with access to showers, toilets, and two ranger stations, but visitors must sleep onboard; camping is strictly prohibited. Most visitors arrive between March and May, so make arrangements well in advance for this time. Accomplished divers are willing to grapple with rainy season’s rough currents, particularly June through August, will be rewarded with huge schools of hammerheads.

View over the Osa Peninsula and Golfo Dulce

The Most Biodiverse Place on Earth: Corcovado National Park and the Osa Peninsula

Lost in lush lowland rainforests left pristine by millennia of isolation, Corcovado National Park is Costa Rica at its most fantastic and untamed. Its endless, undulating, and wholly undeveloped beaches, and its wild jungled heart, absolutely teem with life. Visitors to even to the wonderful hotels fringing the park will gasp as flocks of lapas (red macaws) and families of monkeys gossip in the vine-strewn canopy above.

Toucans make effective alarm clocks in Cabo Matapalo

There are a perhaps two other spots that can claim an equal ecological richness—Yasuni National Park in Ecuador and Weltevrede in South Africa—but the Osa Peninsula’s relatively easy accessibility, combined with Costa Rica’s long term commitment to conservation and sustainability, set Corcovado apart.

Costa Rica famously sits atop an ancient land bridge connecting two rich continents and two blue seas, home to a range of elevations and climates that nurtures some 4% of the world’s species on only .03% of its land mass. While the tiny nation preserves many regions with remarkable ecosystems (by global standards), Corcovado and, indeed, all of the Oso Peninsula that it occupies, are by far and away the most important.

Sharp-eyed visitors could potentially spot four species of monkeys, including the endangered and adorable red-backed squirrel monkey; dantas (Baird’s tapirs); six big cats, the highest concentration in Central America; and many other mammals. Birders quite rightly consider this paradise, with more than 400 bird species flitting around, along with scores of reptiles and amphibians, and more than 10,000 types of insect (bring repellant). There are many more species just offshore, including four types of sea turtles, dolphins, whales, and more than 40 species of fish. Scuba and snorkel trips to Isla Caño are a popular excursion from Drake’s Bay.

Puerto Jiménez's modest beach is still a fine spot to swim and relax.

While visiting the Osa Peninsula is pricey and time-consuming compared to other Costa Rican destinations, improving roads and regular flights to the peninsula’s major towns—Puerto Jimenez, Palmar Sur, Drake’s Bay, and nearby Golfito—make it easier than ever to visit. Charter planes can even be arranged to La Sirena Ranger Station, in the heart of the park.

The classic trek for fit adventurers is a challenging three-day, 37km (23mi) across the park; either arrange this through a tour operator or make reservations well in advance with AMBICOR, which administrates the park. Note that it rains almost year round, with August through November the wettest months. Most travelers try to visit between December and May, the driest months, when you should definitely have reservations, and expect bigger crowds.

Less adventurous wildlife lovers can enjoy the almost equally beautiful outskirts of the park while enjoying a variety of hotels and their thickly forested grounds. All can help arrange day trips into the park itself, as well as many other tours, including zip lines, cacao farms, dolphin trips, private reserves, and more. The most accessible, developed village on the peninsula is Puerto Jimenez, 43km (26mi) from the La Leona entrance to the park, where you’ll find a handful of other options. It’s the best choice for budget travelers because of bus access and several simple hotels. Cabo Matapalo, a picturesque beach between Puerto Jiménez and La Leona, also has a few hotels and hostels.

Lodging in much more isolated Drake’s Bay is pricier for what you get, and accessible primarily by plane or a dreamy boat trip along the Río Sierpe. It’s worth it for the fantastic scenery and the feeling of being right in the park, but with most of the amenities of civilization. Several other amazing lodges, tent camps, and beautiful hotels are scattered around the park’s parameters, including luxurious Lapa Rios, magical Danta Corcovado Lodge, and many more.

The road to La Leona and Corcovado National Park

Visiting the Osa Peninsula and Corcovado National Park takes a bit more effort and planning than other wilderness destinations in Costa Rica, and certainly isn’t for everyone. But if you’re up for a trek into the heart of one of the world’s last pristine rainforests and all it preserves, there is no easier or more accessible option.

A Hiker’s Paradise: Rincón de la Vieja’s Dry Tropical Forests

The misty rainforests, draped thick across most of Costa Rica, are justly famed for their pristine wilderness. But adventurers who seek to penetrate their muddy understories must come prepared: Guides are almost always required to identify birdcalls in the fog, while rubber boots—or better, hanging bridges and canopy tours—are recommended in the slippery rainy season.

Hikers in search of drier trails, however, with clearer views and no need for guides (though they can be arranged) could consider visiting easily accessible Rincón de la Vieja National Park instead, less than an hour from and the international airport. The huge volcanic massif, sometimes called the “Colossus of Guanacaste,” dominates northwestern Costa, covering 14,084 hectares (34,800 acres) and rising to 1916m (6286ft). Most of the volcano is covered with dry tropical forest, Central America’s rarest biome because it is so easily explored—trails are easily negotiated and wildlife clearly visible, particularly in summer months (December through May) when many trees lose their leaves.

Birders in particular will appreciate Rincón de la Vieja’s prodigious fauna, including several species of parrots, parakeets, trogons, and hummingbirds, as well as urracas (magpie jays), bellbirds, toucans, woodpeckers, and perhaps even quetzals at the highest altitudes. Spotting monkeys (howler, spider, and capuchins swing through these trees), pizotes (coatimundis), and kinkajous is almost guaranteed; luckier hikers may find two-toed sloths, armadillos, anteaters, dantas (tapirs) or even big cats. Butterflies flutter in colorful clouds between the buttressed roots of enormous matapalos (strangler figs), while the park’s varied bouquet includes stands of guaria morada orchids, Costa Rica’s national flower.

There are two entrances to the park, about 30km (18mi) from downtown Liberia; many local hotels run shuttles, which take about an hour on the unpaved roads. There is also lodging closer to the top. Both sectors have ranger stations with potable water and shady campgrounds, complete bathrooms and grills, still a rarity even in this outdoorsy nation.

The Santa María Sector is a good choice for people who want to visit Los Azufrales, simple, cement-lined hot springs about 4km (2.5mi) from the ranger station. The majority of trails, however, begin in the Las Pailas Sector, where most shuttle drop you off; the entrances are connected by a little-used, 9km (5mi) trail through the rolling, forested volcanic skirts, primarily hiked by wildlife watchers.

The most popular trail is a relatively flat, 4km (2.5mi) loop past a variety of volcanic features: simmering fumeroles, boiling lakes, bubbling mud pots, popping sulfur vents, and even a sweet little volcanito (small volcano) where iguanas often sun themselves. We recommend saving this trail for the afternoon, if you plan to visit to one of the two picturesque waterfalls as well.

Both waterfall trails run about 4.5km (2.5mi) from the Las Pailas ranger station. Catarata Cangreja is the slightly easier trail (though still challenging), and is perhaps the lovelier cascade, dyed that celestial volcanic blue. Visiting Catarata Escondida requires a much steeper hike, and is the smaller fall. But, as the majority of hikers are put off by the climb, you may have the “Hidden Cascade” all to yourself. Either way, pack some snacks and enjoy a swim in paradise.

Serious climbers will want to take on the very steep, 12km (8mi) trail to active Von Seebach Crater, a simmering acid lake surrounded by a 5-kilometer-wide, barren lunar landscape, a compound caldera that most recently spewed forth lava in 1998. The hike takes all day, and the last two kilometers are extremely steep, and can be slippery and dangerous. The peak may be entirely enveloped in foggy rain even on otherwise sunny days, which will not only obscure your volcanic view, but may even necessitate turning back. You’ll be rewarded, regardless, with views across Guanacaste and to Lake Nicaragua, well worth the trip.

Rincón de la Vieja National Park is open Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m.; entrance is US$10 for foreign visitors. Day trips can be arranged from Los Sueños and Jaco; many offer the option of a canopy tour at Hacienda Guachipelin, with decent lodging, horseback tours, and more. Much plusher accommodations can be arranged at Blue River Resort Hotel or Borinquen Mountain Resort and Spa.

Costa Rican Coffee
Those neat rows of gleaming, emerald green coffee plant climbing into the Meseta Central no longer produce Costa Rica’s most important export, this is true. That distinction is now held microprocessors, a modern concession of the nation’s romantic past to the globalized economy.

Regardless, the “golden bean,” as coffee was once called, remains a rich and aromatic symbol of the nation. Easily processed and stored, cheerfully addictive, and wildly profitable, it transformed Costa Rica from a forgotten backwater of the Spanish Empire to an agricultural powerhouse, just decades after its arrival in the 1779. It would go on to define an era—the Coffee Boom of the late 1850s to early 1900s—memorialized by the Central Valley’s finest architecture and a railway system, once the pride of the Americas, built to transport this precious cargo.

Today, the nation’s seasonal pulse is still defined by the all-important coffee crop. Tiny white flowers bloom every April in a tropical blizzard of pale petals, draped across the chill volcanic slopes. As rainy season begins in earnest, these become the hard green peaberries, or coffee fruits, that will ripen to a juicy ruby red by November or so, just in time for uniformed children to pluck a few on their way to school.

The dates vary, of course, according to elevation and variety, but the main December to February harvest sends the entire Central Plateau into high gear. Workers flood the fields with their baskets and wide-brimmed hats, picking each fragile fruit by hand. The beans are then usually wet processed, using enormous tubs to wash the surprisingly sweet fruit off the seed, before it has time to ferment and change the flavor. (Some specialty blends do used slightly fermented seeds, but this is an acquired taste.)

The beans are then dried, usually by raking them over cement patios in the sun; if you explore rural Costa Rica during harvest, you’ll see yellow beans spread out on the sides of paved roads. Finally, the coffee is hulled, to remove the “parchment,” then processed for roasting and grinding. The classic Costa Rican method of brewing coffee uses a chorreador, or coffee sock: a cotton filter filled with fresh coffee is suspended above a cup or pot, and hot water is poured through by hand.

Several fincas, or coffee plantations, offer tours year-round, and the very best time to visit is during the harvest. The most popular tours are offered by Britt Café, complete with costumed song-and-dance numbers that entertain the kids; and Doka Estate, a more sedate, traditional tour, both just outside San José. There are several other fincas with similar offerings, including the Santa Elena Fair Trade Cooperative and Don Juan Coffee Tour, both in the Monteverde cloud forests, and even smaller operations in Tarrazu and Orosí, just south of San José.

No matter where you go, however, be sure to pick up a few bags of fine Costa Rican coffee before heading home—this is one souvenir that just about every adult on your list will appreciate. While the most popular brands, such as Britt, are sure to keep your favorite caffeine addicts happy, don’t discount the cheaper, pre-ground store brands preferred by locals, like Café 1820. Because only perfect, whole beans can be considered for exports, cracked but otherwise delicious coffee is relegated for the local market, but well worth a try.

Our favorite is Quick Monkey, the farm boarders primary rainforest and the coffee is shade grown on the side of a mountain in Monte Azul’s nature preserve near Chirripo, Costa Rica’s highest peak at 12,530 feet (3,727 meters) in the Talamanca Range. We include a bag in all of our guests’ vacation rental gift baskets when they stay in Costa Rica with Mead Brown.  Guests often make a special effort to rave to us about how marvelous the coffee is. You can visit the once abandoned coffee farm or take the full organic coffee tour. As a proud member of their local organic coop of family farms, La Alianza, Monte Azul Hotel + Center for Contemporary Art guarantees their process is 100% natural and organic, straight to your cup!

It’s not all about heavy partying anymore

Jaco Beach on Costa Rica’s Central Pacific Coast is the perfect destination for a beach-focused bachelor party adventure vacation.  With the Pacific Ocean in your front yard, rain forest in the back yard, the possible activities include surfing, fishing for marlin, sail fish, dorado and wahoo, sailing, jet skiing, hiking, zip lining, white water rafting, horseback riding, birding, golfing, and smoking Cuban cigars (they’re legal here!).  Adventure, luxurious accommodations, excellent restaurants and private chefs, and Mead Brown’s legendary personal service combine for a fun factor that’s off the charts.

Recently Neil Nagraj wrote in Forbes Traveler about bachelor parties that are centered around adventure, “In movies and lore, the bachelor party blowout is all but synonymous with exotic dancers and heavy partying. But today’s best men are lining up different fetes for the groom-to-be, planning elaborate destination parties that don’t include wild nights on the town.  That’s not to say that the traditional Las Vegas blowout is a thing of the past. “Vegas is still king, says Jake Schraufnagel, publisher of Today’s Groom. “But more best men are arranging whitewater rafting trips, golf weekends and other extreme vacations.”

Nagraj continues, “According to the most recent U.S. census, Americans are staying single for nearly five more years than their parents did. The average man walks down the aisle when he’s 27.1-years-old; a quarter century ago, he would’ve been 23.2-years-old. (For women, it’s 25.8 and 20.8, respectively.) This may explain why bachelor parties are changing, says Schraufnagel. ‘As the groom and his friends get older, they can afford a memorable weekend getaway for a bachelor party. Having more disposable income is a huge deciding factor in the bachelor party festivities.’”

Nagraj went on to write, “Older grooms-to-be may also have different priorities than their younger counterparts. ‘A younger groom may have younger attendees who are single themselves with no wife to answer to at the end of the bachelor party,’ says Schraufnagel. ‘Guys are using the bachelor party as a reunion and a great opportunity to introduce new friends of the groom’s to old friends from the past.’ The focus, then, shifts from a night at the strip club to a weekend to remember with the guys.”

Michael Brown of Mead Brown Costa Rica Vacations says, “My best advice is to start planning now.  With so many schedules to coordinate, you generally need to plan three to four months in advance to line up the best fishing boats (exceptional boats and crews book well in advance, particularly December through April) for our world-class sport fishing (more than 60 world record fish have been caught here) and accommodations. We are expert at logistics and at providing personal service; this results in bachelor parties that are memorable for all the right reasons.”

Here are a few of the adventures to consider for your beach bachelor party on Costa Rica’s Pacific Coast:

	Sport Fishing The cobalt blue waters of the gulf stream combined with the mineral rich waters of the Pacific create some of the most fertile fishing grounds in Central America. We know the best boats and captains to make your adventure memorable! The ultra-modern 250 slip marina at Los Sueños is a short run on flat seas to blue water. Off shore, angle for sailfish, blue or black marlin, wahoo, yellow fin tuna, and dorado. In shore you’ll find snapper and snook and those thrilling fighters roosterfish. All vessels are equipped with GPS, color fish finders, VHS, and emergency first aid kits. All captains and mates have many years of experience in the area and are fully licensed and qualified. Call us, we’ll hook you up!
	Canopy Tours (yes, the zip line!) These exciting tours can be considered a thrill of a lifetime as you traverse the tropical primary forest on a system of cables and platforms. You climb to the top for a bird’s eye view and then experience the exhilaration as you rapidly glide between each platform, led by experienced guides who put your safety first. Mead Brown knows the best canopy tour for you (and there are several close by!) Perhaps our favorite and most popular tour! Commonly called “zip lines.” You will call them a blast!
	Sea Kayaking Ocean going outriggers, single and double kayaks, river kayaking and surf kayaking are just a few of the kayaking options that you can enjoy while here on the Pacific Coast. Paddle through the warm waters and enjoy this popular sport. It’s the perfect way to appreciate the wonders of nature and the beautiful coastline. Your guide will also take you to the perfect spot for snorkeling, where you will quickly be surrounded by a wide variety of tropical fish. Let Mead Brown book the best trip for you!
	River Rafting After a short trip by air-conditioned minivan you are taken up river to start your adventure of 18 miles of pure fun and unsurpassed beauty. This is a trip of full contact with nature, with exposure to lush vegetation and the white water rapids. The time flies as you race down the rapids – you will want to go again as soon as you are finished! Mead Brown can book this for you – just ask!
	Surfing The Central Pacific Coast means surfing – year ‘round! Some of the best beaches for hanging ten are right here – minutes from all our properties. We know the locals – the people who know the best places and times to catch the waves of your dreams! The ocean is waiting for you and your board. We can book surf classes for all ages and experience levels.
	ATV Adventure Capture extraordinary ocean views and mountain vistas as you drive through rustic trails and rare teak plantations. Professional bilingual guides will lead you through the exotic tropical rainforest just a short ride from the famous Jacó Beach. End your adventure with a refreshing swim in a natural pool at an amazing waterfall. A Mead Brown favorite and destined to be one of yours.
	Jet Skis Jet skis are plentiful and can be rented by the hour or day. Scoot around the various beaches to check out what’s happening. Scoot along the ocean at your leisure enjoying the sun and surf around you at your own speed. Wild and all out or bobbing along enjoying the view. If you have never operated a personal watercraft, there are instructors who can teach you and your family how to operate them safely. The kids are going to love it and you will too.
	SCUBA Diving One of the best ways to get a first hand glimpse of Costa Rica’s stunning underwater marine life is through a scuba diving tour. Scuba diving facilities in Costa Rica are now world class those on the Central Pacific Coast are no exception.  Massive schools of fish, an amazing array of marine life and an ideal water temperature throughout the year mean that SCUBA diving conditions in Costa Rica are perfect.  With professional PADI instruction courses as well as top quality dive shops with equipment rental services, SCUBA diving here has reached new heights (or should we say new depths?). We can assist fully on all aspects of your undersea adventure.
	Championship Golf Nestled alongside an exotic rainforest in Los Suenos Resort & Marina with breathtaking ocean views, this 18-hole, par-72 championship La Iguana golf course offers not only a challenging Ted Robinson-designed layout but also a spectacular gallery featuring friendly monkeys and brightly hued macaws. Your knowledgeable golf guides will be happy to point them out. But make no mistake: the mesmerizing scenery masks a challenging course – one well worth conquering.

A proud mother who's just laid a nest of Olive Ridley turtle eggs

Last night my buddy Raul and I met up at the Back Yard Bar and Grill and then drove the six or so miles to the south end of Hermosa Beach (Playa Hermosa) just 10 minutes from Jaco; the last five miles were all within the Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge, a nature preserve established by the government about eight years ago. The north end of this beach is where the World Surfing Games were held during the first week of August 2009.

Four of the world’s seven species of marine turtles nest on the Pacific Coast of Costa Rica — the Pacific Green, Leatherback, Hawksbill and the Olive Ridley.  Forty-seven beaches on the Pacific Coast have been identified as having turtle nesting activity

The Olive Ridley turtle lays 70-120 eggs at a time, and typically lays two-three batches per year. This is one of the many interesting bits of info shared by Raul, a Costa Rican who knows so much about his beautiful country, including its history, flora and fauna. 

Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge on Costa Rica's Pacific Coast

Our mission was to walk the beach looking for turtle tracks, which lead to nests of just-laid eggs. Mostly we walked by moonlight; it’s easier to see the tracks. Occasionally we turned on our red-light flashlights to check out whatever dark mass was in our path (always just a large log or beautiful piece of driftwood, typically from an ancient growth tree struck down by age and the elements).  Artificial light disorients the turtles; they navigate by the light of the moon.

Raul has experienced so much of Costa Rica. While walking toward the mouth of the Tulin River and the 100 or so crocodiles who call it home, he told me about fishing in there and catching rooster fish and huge snook.  At a river further south, he met an old guy in an ancient canoe who had told Raul about the crocodile who ate his dog.  Enraged at losing a loved companion, the old guy killed the 12 foot long croc with a grappling hook.  When Raul expressed disbelief, Cocodrilo Dundee took Raul to his hut and pulled the croc skull with teeth out from under his bed.  Sr. Dundito had eaten the dog-eating croc!

I asked Raul what croc tastes like and his response was the one heard the world over, “Like chicken!”  My high school chum Tammi Mclaughlin wrote on Facebook, “I’ve actually had crocodile and I think it tastes like not much of anything with a nice rubber texture to boot!”.

Olive Ridley turtle laying eggs

Once at the river, we shined our flashlight across the broad waters and were met by the reflections of about 20 red dots. Each dot represented one eye of a croc hunting in the river (the second eye of each was on the other side of their head and not seen by us).

We walked back to the nursery where about 100 nests are covered by protecting wire mesh (to help keep raccoons and other predators out) and surrounded by a wire mesh fence.  We found that one nest had been destroyed by ants and all the eggs had been ruined.  Better luck at the next nest, where one baby turtle had hatched and was somewhere in his hour-long process of waking up and gathering energy for his journey to the sea. With a gloved hand (to protect him from our insect repellant and other forms of contamination), the tortugito (baby turtle) was carried to the water’s edge, where he was gently washed out into the Pacific with the next small wave. 

I said a silent prayer for his health and well-being and imagined what changes the world would see during his lifetime, which could be 70 years. (Another Bush presidency? China’s world domination? Scott Miller becomes house trained again?)

We then walked up the beach in the other direction, looking for a momma turtle making her way to lay eggs.  What we found were fresh turtle tracks.  She had made a roundtrip, which means the eggs had been buried above the high tide mark.  We found the nest, dug up the eggs, counted and placed them in a plastic grocery bag.  Turtle eggs—Olive (so named for their color) Ridley turtle eggs—do not have a hard shell.  The eggs are squishy, softer even than a hard-boiled egg that’s been peeled. 

Turtle eggs being laid; think "squishy ping pong ball"

I carried the eggs to the nursery and re-buried them in the sand, within the protective enclosure. Of the 106 eggs, 85 or so will likely hatch. Those nearest the top of the nest (a hole dug in sand, elbow deep) will likely be female, those on the bottom will likely be male. Gender is determined by the temperature during an early developmental stage (eggs nearer the top are made warmer by the sun).

With our one hatchling safely launched and our eggs buried, we called it a night. I cannot wait to return; Raul is a terrific guide. Easy company and very knowledgeable.  His family has grown coffee in the San Ramon area of Costa Rica for generations and Raul sells it via a web site he built.  Check out the site; better yet, order a few bags for yourself and friends; Finca Rica (rich farm) ships to the U.S., Canada, Europe and elsewhere.

A just-hatched Ridley turtle making its way to the Pacific Ocean

When you come to Costa Rica for an adventure vacation off the beaten tourist path, let me know and I’ll hook you up with Raul.  His specialties as a guide are outings that are “non-touristy” and include surfing, fishing, waterfalls, coffee farm tours, snorkeling and this hands-on turtle tour at the Tulin Playa Hermosa Refuge.

This weekend Raul is heading to Playa Camaronal in the Guanacaste region on the Northern Pacific Coast for “arribada” (mass arrival) of Ridley turtles. Check out Christopher P. Baker’s blog for an excellent description of this wonder of nature.

"Mass arrival" of Olive Ridley turtles coming to lay eggs